Let’s Talk About Ramps

I recently visited Spicer’s FM 1410 to grab a pound of ramps the day they arrived in shop.  At $18 a pound I was a bit hesitant.  But, I own Tom Colicchio’s book, “Think Like a Chef” and there’s a whole section devoted to dishes that contained ramps, asparagus and morels.  Never having seen ramps available in a grocery store here in Dallas, I felt like I just had to try them.

So, what is a ramp?  It is an alium that looks basically like a green onion or scallion.  They are also called wild leeks.  I have read that some ramps are stronger than others.  But, mine had a very slight garlic taste to them.  I decided to cook them with potatoes and saute a few in olive oil to see what they tasted like straight up.  I have a few observations to offer after finishing my afternoon with ramps…

 First of all, these were tiny.  Most were thinner than a typical green onion.  So, once I had cleaned and chopped up all the white parts I had about a cup and a half of ramps.  $18 for a that?  The biggest ones were saute’d.  They had a slightly sinewy quality that I didn’t enjoy too much.  They tasted fine, but not $18 fine.  The potatoes were cooked as a gratin-type dish.  Basically, just potatoes, salt and pepper, ramps and a mixture of cream and chicken broth with some cheese tossed on top at the end.  I really enjoyed the flavor the ramps gave this dish.  Very light and smooth.  Reminded me of leek and potato soup.  But, again…  $18?

While I really liked the potatoes, I don’t believe that any side dish should cost more than $20 unless it has truffles or something more substantial involved than onion.  I liked my ramps.  Not sure I’ll be going back for more, though.  I did find a site called Earthy Delights that will ship you ramps for $11.50 a pound.  Of course, the shipping is $28.50!