Eating In Dallas

Entries from August 2008

Tomorrow’s Gumbo

August 31, 2008 · 3 Comments

You ever have one of those days? 

I woke up thinking about gumbo and knowing that Hubbard would gladly eat it, no matter how hot it was outside.  Some shrimp, chicken and Andouille sausage sounded good.  Maybe a few oysters to throw into the bowl.  I went to the store and bought what I needed.  Right now, when I should be slicing and dicing and whipping up a roux, I’m  surfing and drinking a glass of Chardonnay.

Somehow, I’ve lost my focus.  Everything sounds like a big bother.  We had tamales in the fridge.  Tamales became lunch.  I could get up and wash some dishes.  I could also sit here and do nothing.  I could write about our visit yesterday to Pescabar for brunch.  It was soooo good.  But, I’m too lazy to tell all the details.  I’ll wait.

Here I am, in this sluggish state, when our friends down the street call.  They ask if we’d like to join them for dinner.  They’re grilling a big hunk of beef tenderloin.  Suddenly, the sun shines in my kitchen.  Yes sir, we’d like to join them.  Be there in a couple of hours for cocktails?  Sure thing.  Sounds perfect!  And now it’s not one of those days anymore.  I don’t even have time to cook gumbo. 

So there!

Categories: thoughts on food
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The Great State Fair of Texas

August 28, 2008 · 12 Comments

OK, kids!  Who knows what time it is?  That’s right!  It’s time to start getting excited about the Great State Fair of Texas!  Personally, I’ve been going to the fair on opening day foor the last 20 years running.  Hubbard got me hooked on it.  Opening day is the best.  Crowds are at a minimum.  The employees all like their jobs.  And the grease is clean. 

If you get there early you can park on Exposition for free and just walk on in.  The problem with getting there when the gates first open is that all the food vendors aren’t quite ready to go.  So, unless you stay all day, you might miss something good and tasty and fried on a stick. 

Quite honestly, we spend a serious chunk of our time on opening day sitting behind the Hall of State at picnic tables with our friends, drinking beer and catching up with each other.  It’s amazing how many people you’ll see that you know on opening day.  

So, start getting excited!  And don’t forget to grab some of those Texas shaped nachos.  And a Fletcher’s corny dog slathered with mustard.  And a Belgian waffle with strawberries and whipped cream.  And a turkey leg.  What about those fries from Jack’s with a dash of vinegar?  Hans Mueller’s sausages are pretty damned good, too.  Of course, what keeps us parked behind the Hall of State is the famous B&W’s three coupon beer.  It’s not three coupons anymore.  But, you can still get a Shiner cheaper than anywhere else on the fairgrounds in the food building. 

Ah, the Great State Fair of Texas.  I can’t wait.  Go ahead and take off that last Friday in September and go.  You’ll be glad you did.

Categories: Food Event
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The Omnivore’s Hundred

August 27, 2008 · 8 Comments

Thanks Bruleeblog for sharing this from the Very Good Taste site!

Here’s what I want you to do:

1) Copy this list into your blog or journal, including these instructions.
2) Bold all the items you’ve eaten.
3) Cross out any items that you would never consider eating.
4) Optional extra: Post a comment here at www.verygoodtaste.co.uk linking to your results.

The VGT Omnivore’s Hundred:

1. Venison
2. Nettle tea
3. Huevos rancheros
4. Steak tartare
5. Crocodile
6. Black pudding
7. Cheese fondue
8. Carp
9. Borscht
10. Baba ghanoush
11. Calamari
12. Pho (I can’t believe I still haven’t had this!)
13. PB&J sandwich
14. Aloo gobi
15. Hot dog from a street cart
16. Epoisses
17. Black truffle
18. Fruit wine made from something other than grapes
19. Steamed pork buns
20. Pistachio ice cream
21. Heirloom tomatoes
22. Fresh wild berries
23. Foie gras
24. Rice and beans
25. Brawn, or head cheese
26. Raw Scotch Bonnet pepper (Maybe I wouldn’t eat this since I’ve had the opportunity)
27. Dulce de leche
28. Oysters
29. Baklava
30. Bagna cauda
31. Wasabi peas
32. Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl
33. Salted lassi
34. Sauerkraut
35. Root beer float
36. Cognac with a fat cigar
37. Clotted cream tea
38. Vodka jelly/Jell-O
39. Gumbo
40. Oxtail
41. Curried goat
42. Whole insects
43. Phaal
44. Goat’s milk (Does goat cheese count?)
45. Malt whisky from a bottle worth £60/$120 or more
46. Fugu
47. Chicken tikka masala
48. Eel
49. Krispy Kreme original glazed doughnut
50. Sea urchin
51. Prickly pear
52. Umeboshi
53. Abalone
54. Paneer
55. McDonald’s Big Mac Meal
56. Spaetzle
57. Dirty gin martini
58. Beer above 8% ABV
59. Poutine (This sounds wonderful!)
60. Carob chips
61. S’mores
62. Sweetbreads
63. Kaolin
64. Currywurst
65. Durian (I’m not sure I could once I got close enough to smell it.  But, I’d try)
66. Frogs’ legs
67. Beignets, churros, elephant ears or funnel cake
68. Haggis
69. Fried plantain
70. Chitterlings, or andouillette
71. Gazpacho
72. Caviar and blini
73. Louche absinthe
74. Gjetost, or brunost
75. Roadkill (Only if it was really fresh, as in I killed it)
76. Baijiu
77. Hostess Fruit Pie
78. Snail
79. Lapsang souchong
80. Bellini
81. Tom yum
82. Eggs Benedict
83. Pocky
84. Tasting menu at a three-Michelin-star restaurant. (I hope I don’t die before I do this!)
85. Kobe beef
86. Hare
87. Goulash
88. Flowers
89. Horse
90. Criollo chocolate
91. Spam
92. Soft shell crab
93. Rose harissa
94. Catfish
95. Mole poblano
96. Bagel and lox
97. Lobster Thermidor
98. Polenta
99. Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee
100. Snake

Categories: thoughts on food
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Bijoux for Restaurant Week

August 24, 2008 · 8 Comments

Ah, Bijoux.  Why is it that I don’t visit this place more often?  The food is unbelievable.  The service is flawless.  I am totally in love with Bijoux.

I am impressed with the way so many people are involved with your service at Bijoux.  Two men bring the amuse, another woman serves the wine and someone else takes your order.  Every dish is carefully explained.  I can’t imagine ever actually wanting anything that didn’t immediately appear.  The place is full of mind readers.  After we ordered, we were presented with an amuse bouche of cucumber, watermelon and micro-greens drizzled with vinaigrette.  Darling and tasty.  Possibly the smallest salad I’ve ever eaten.  Cute food is so fun.

I wanted to try all the first course options.  Everything sounded marvelous.  White corn and coconut soup… melon carpaccio with crab…  I finally decided that after having tried the pork belly the last time we visited, I couldn’t pass it up this time.  It did not disappoint.  The meat was savory and tender, with a crispy exterior.  Even the fat was impossible to ignore.  The fat had a texture almost like bone marrow and flavor was clean and rich.  I couldn’t resist spreading some on my rosemary bread.  The pork was served over baby bok choy and carrots with an Asian jus.  A tasting of 2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle “Eroica” Reisling complimented the meat perfectly.  This was Hubbard’s favorite course. 

Next came the Central Market fourth course coupon option, smoked prawn with heirloom tomatoe and watercress salad with a chorizo vinaigrette.  It was paired with a 2006 WillaKenzie Pinot Noir.  Wonderful.  Who would have thought that the flavors of chorizo and prawn would marry so well?  A touch of smokiness and the acid from the vinaigrette made this a memorable course.  Free always factors in nicely, as well.

I chose the Scottish salmon over polenta with asparagus and mushrooms.  The wine was a 2006 Steele Pinot Noir.  Hubbard chose the N.Y. strip steak with pomme puree, root vegetables and Tellicherry pepper sauce paired with 2005 Estancia Cabernet Savignon.  Hubbard made the better decision.  The salmon was not bad.  But, it wasn’t as delicate as I was hoping.  The steak was served cut into strips on a pile of whipped potatoes.  The peppery sauce was terrific and after having tried Hub’s I was pretty jealous.  We got to sample the truffled risotto and I couldn’t believe that I was actually thinking that I should have ordered rice for my main course.  I usually always prefer meat.  The texture was perfectly creamy and moist.  The addition of the shaved truffles just threw it over the top. 

A little palate cleanser arrived.  Granny Smith apple sorbet served atop crushed pecans.  A perfectly refreshing little bite of bright flavor.  Very tasty.  Then came my favorite part of the meal, the cheese course.  Hubbard had dessert instead.  Almond panna cotta with poached peaches and toasted almond ice cream.  This was served with a Taylor 10 year tawny port.  I think he liked the port more than the dessert since he was eyeing a bottle in the liquor store yesterday.  The panna cotta was perfectly executed, creamy with a subtle almond flavor.  The cheese course was a slice of Maytag blue cheese with celery confit, carrot custard and a paper-thin slice of fried pancetta.  A little bit of all of it on your fork made a stunning combination.  The saltiness of the pork with that blue cheese tang and a tad of sweetness from the carrot…  perfection.  Follow it up with a taste of 2006 Yalumba Botrytis Viognier and try not to sob.  It was that good.

A tray of sweets accompanied our coffee and the check.  We walked out into the night and agreed that no matter what they say, a restaurant really can live up to your highest expectations.  Bijoux is absolutely heavenly.

Categories: Restaurant Review
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Here I Go Again…

August 21, 2008 · 10 Comments

Here I go, getting all bent out of shape again.  But, this really bothers me.  There is dispute going on at the Dallas Morning News Eats blog about whether or not you should mention, in the course of describing your experience at a restaurant, that the service was bad.  No one is debating whether or not you should mention the service was good.  It’s fine to go on and on about how the service made your visit really special.  But, evidently, if you mention that your server was unattentive or basically missing in action you’ve done the unforgivable.  I don’t agree. 

I never even tried to wait tables because I knew I’d be horrible at it.  The public is difficult, to say the least.  When you decide to take a job dealing with the public you put yourself in the spotlight.  One contributor to the Eats blog basically suggested that a person could lose their job because someone said something bad about them on the internet.  Maybe that’s true.  I doubt that a reasonable employer would fire anyone based on one comment.  An accumulation of negative comments, either on the internet or in person, would rightly lead to a termination in any field.  No one fires a person that they find valuable based on one opinion.  The fact is that some people can never be satisfied and everyone who deals with the public is aware of that.

If I get bad service I am going to mention it.  If someone loses their job it is not because of me.  It’s because of the level of service they provide.  I could never survive Restaurant Week if I were on the serving side of the table.  That’s why I’m so impressed with the true professionals who, despite all the petty, unsophisticated complaints always rise above being provoked or losing interest in their jobs.  Their employers know who they are.

Categories: thoughts on food
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The National Hamburger Festival

August 20, 2008 · 4 Comments

This looks interesting…  You up for a burger cook-off?  This September 13th in Athens, Texas they are holding the National Hamburger Festival.  Sounds like it might be fun.  Anyone ever been?

Categories: Food Event
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Meadow Creek Dairy Grayson Cheese

August 20, 2008 · 3 Comments

My husband was looking for a snack we could have before our dinner at Fearing’s.  He came home with a bottle of Chardonnay and a wedge of Meadow Creek Grayson cheese.  The cheese man, “Mr. Frommage”, at Central Market suggested it when Hub told him I like strong cheeses.  “Stinky cheese?” he asked.  Hub said that I would like that.  Hub was right.  Yes, it’s stinky - or should I say pungent?  Although, the taste isn’t as strong the aroma.  It has a bit of a bite.  Still, there is a sweetness present and the texture is creamy.  It pairs beautifully with the Chardonnay.  It is kind of nutty, ending with an almost oyster-like flavor.   I did a some research and found out that the Grayson won first place honors in the American Cheese Society’s Farmstead Catagory.  It’s made with the milk processed right there on the farm in Virginia.  I like that.  So much so, that I had to go back and get more a couple of days later.

Categories: thoughts on food
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Tonnino Yellowfin Tuna Fillets with Garlic in Olive Oil

August 18, 2008 · 7 Comments

I’m really liking this stuff.

It’s way more expensive than canned tuna (approx $7 a jar).  But, I don’t like canned tuna.  I like this!  I usaully spend $7 or more on fish for a dinner salad.  That’s how I justify the cost to myself.  My husband even likes it.  I’ve never seen him eat a bite of canned tuna in the 20 years I’ve known him.  The guy at Central Market told me when I sampled the tuna that the olive oil was great for salad dressing.  I haven’t tried that yet.  How could that not be good?

Categories: ingredients
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Fearing’s for Restaurant Week

August 16, 2008 · 7 Comments

You know, all you really have to do is go to one of the best restaurants in Dallas to have no complaints.  Last night we dined at Fearing’s and  I have to say that I loved every minute of it.  Fearing’s is very “Dallas”.  Nice cars, beautiful people, stylish clothes and a certain buzz that brings the room to life.  The restaurant and bar are a treat visually.  But, it’s that buzz that makes it special.  People want to be there and are having a very good time.  Dean Fearing appeared at the table just as we were settling in.  He’s such a happy looking person and it’s nice to be greeted by one of the most famous Dallas chefs around.  It is a touch that makes a difference in how people feel to be at Fearing’s. 

We had great and unpretentious service.  Hubbard pointed out that the ratio of staff to guest was very high.  Tall, too.  There were an amazing amount of really tall men.  I was kind of fascinated by that.  Anyway, the service was very good.  We started with the best sangria I have ever had in life.  Sapphire Sangria is a blend of blueberry-infused Bombay Sapphire with Disaronno Amaretto and Spanish Rioja.  Fabulous.  I think Bill Addison once refered to a sangria as chug-able.  This was that.  Way chug-able.  The whole blueberries were a nice touch and tasty. 

The four of us split our choices between the Caesar salad and Dean’s tortilla soup.  Never having been to the Mansion when Fearing was there, I had not sampled his famed tortilla soup.  How could I pass it up?  It’s the broth that sets it apart.  The chicken and other additions are served in a fairly huge bowl.  The broth is poured over the other ingredients at the table.  It’s dense, not a watery broth and it’s full of flavor.  Though I’ve had some really good tortilla soup around Dallas, I now understand how this soup gained it’s devoted fans.  Dean blazed some culinary trails in these parts and Dallas isn’t quick to forget a good thing.  The Caesar salad was served with a smoky red chili dressing, grilled radicchio, baby romaine and San Pedro cheese.  I stole a bite off Hub’s plate.  Fun.  But, I was happier with the soup.

We got a very reasonable bottle of $26 Nugan, Cabernet Sauvignon to go with our next choices.  Three of us went with the chili braised short ribs.  Jean, the only one of us who had been to Fearing’s previously, chose the ancho/orange brined pork tenderloin.  I know, I should have tried something different.  I just had short rib earlier in the week at the Mansion.  But, I couldn’t resist.  I love short ribs.  And I really loved these short ribs.  Served over a pile of queso fresco whipped potatoes and topped with crispy tobacco onions… fantastic.  I never even touched my knife.  Everyone commented on how the fried onions complimented the flavor of the dish and gave it a comforting touch.  I only tasted one bite of the pork, served on a smoky poblano puree and heirloom tomato/avocado relish.  I loved the freshness of the relish.  The pork was very good, too. 

The waiter came by, “Do you want coffee with dessert or would you rather stick with the grape juice?”  We ordered another bottle of the Cab to go with our dark chocolate cake with white chocolate mousse.  The dessert was the only course with no other options.  But, come on, you don’t want dark chocolate cake with white chocolate mousse?  Cornelia and I couldn’t finish our desserts.   Luckily we had tablemates that were glad to take up the slack.  It was totally yummy.  We agreed that more of the chocolate and cherry sauces that were spooned on each side of the cake would have made it even better.  I often end up wanting more of good things. 

The scene was just too fabulous to abandon.  After dinner, we sauntered out to the patio to take advantage of the unseasonably cool weather.  Cosmo in hand.  Signed menu in my purse.  Tonight, we were some of those beautiful people.

Categories: Food Event · Restaurant Review
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The Mansion for Restaurant Week

August 12, 2008 · 9 Comments

As we pulled up to the valet I told my husband, “I’m kind of nervous.  So, you do all the talking”.  Maybe it’s silly.  But, I was a little intimidated to be visiting one of the most desirable restaurants in Dallas.  I’ve heard about The Mansion all my life, it seems.  Now I was finally going to dinner.  It didn’t take more than a minute or two for their gracious staff to put me at ease.  No more nerves, just pure excitement.

It’s a beautiful place.  We had a nice seat in the corner where we could overlook the entire room.  Hubbard ordered a Maker’s Mark and I studied the menu.  More choices than I had thought.  For supplemental $$ you could get a nice seafood salad or braised short ribs.  Short ribs are one of my weaknesses. 

Next time we’ll go to the bar first.  The Maitre D’ led me through the bar towards the ladies room.  Though I was glad to have his assistance, I decided that it looked like a very good place to get lost.  Nice and dark, beautifully appointed.  I can see myself spending a little time there, for sure.  When I got back to the table they served bread and an amuse of chilled tomato soup with herbed creme fraiche.  The herbs came from the garden that Tom Spicer planted on the grounds.  Terri, our server, said that it’s nice to see the chef going out every day to harvest the herbs they will use.

We decided on the Herb and Paula Lambert’s Crescenza Ravioli with tomato compote, tomato vinagrette and Mansion garden pesto.  The pasta was so delicate and tender, with just enough cheese filling.  Super fresh tasting sauce with tiny little buttons of pesto scattered around made it a tasty dish that was visually fun, as well.  It was served with a Sancerre, Chateau de Sancerre, Loire 2006.  My favorite wine of the evening.  Very clean and crisp, complementing the tomatoes perfectly.

I had to go for the short ribs, despite the extra $20 charge.  Hubbard chose the Chile rubbed loin of pork with cheddar grits and roasted Texas peach relish.  It was fabulous.  Here is the difference between me and Chef Tesar: he can make pork loin taste like something out of this world.  When I make pork loin it tastes good.  But, no one is crying for me to make it again and again.  The pork was juicy and full flavored.  Paired up perfectly with it’s dishmates.  Hubbard’s wine was Malbec, BenMarco, Mendoza Argentina, 2005.  Very nice.

The short ribs, however, stole the show.   Braised for seven hours and served with no bone, just a big hunk of cut-it-with-a-fork tender beef rib meat.  Terri told us it was broiled just a little before serving to give it a nice crust.  It was the definition of savory.  The reduced wine demi-glace just made it that much more decadent.  Served with little morsels of sweet corn, chanterelle mushrooms and scallions.  I loved it.  The kind of dish that you wish would never end.  The Syrah, Montes Alpha, Colchagua Chile, 2006 was very good.  But, all I can really remember was that meat and the sauce.

For dessert Hub had the Three Chocolate Torte:  White chocolate mousse, milk chocolate cremeax, dark base chocolate.  Served with chocolate sorbet.  Served with Brachetto d’Acqui, Rosa Regale, Banfi, Italy.  Hubbard is really the dessert person between the two of us.  I’m almost tempted to ask for another appetizer and skip dessert.  We did really enjoy our choices, though.  I got the Strawberry Shortcake:  Buttermilk shortcake, macerated local strawberries and sweet cream, served with a Moscato d’Asti “La Cascinetta”, Vietti, Piedmonte, Italy 2006.  Very good.  My mother would have cried over this dessert.  And I liked that the wine was sparkling.  There’s something special about a sparkling wine. 

What did I like best about the evening?  It was Restaurant Week and, other than the packed dining room, I couldn’t tell.  No one there even hinted that we were anything other than desirable clients.  No one was hurried or distracted.  When we arrived we got a little envelope with our names on the outside and a card inside thanking us for dining with them for Restaurant Week.  When we left we were presented with a card that offers us a free dessert wine when we have dinner there again.  Our server, Terri, was so nice and seemed genuinely happy to be explaining our food and the history of the establishment.  Brian, the Maitre D’ stepped out to our car to say goodbye as we left.   

I settled into the drive home feeling like I love to feel… fully sated and pampered.  Places like The Mansion are why I look forward to Restaurant Week more than Christmas.  And I’ve been a really good girl.

Categories: Food Event · Restaurant Review
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