Eating In Dallas

Guess what this is?

If you guessed right, you guessed that it was a whole redfish that I bought on impulse at Central Market this morning.  I went for a piece of halibut and look what happened.

Doesn’t he look peaceful? 

Anyway, I made a paste of butter, olive oil, chives, garlic, rosemary, thyme, basil and salt & pepper.  I made slices through the skin and then slathered on the paste.  I stuffed the body with some more of the herbs and lemon slices.

He was laid to rest in our biggest oval Dutch oven, sealed the top with foil and then the lid.  The pot contained a bed of lemon slices, 5 sliced scallions, a couple of rosemary sprigs, 2 bay leaves and about a cup or so of white wine.  He cooked at 375 for about 55 minutes.  After I put arranged him on the platter with the lemon slices and big herbs I covered our fish friend with foil to sit while the sauce reduced. 

 Sauce - pan drippings + 14 oz can diced fire roasted tomatoes + approx 10 sliced kalamata olives thrown in at the end.  Oh, and a pinch of sugar because this stuff was super acidic.  We served the redfish over rice with the sauce.  Haricot verts on the side and a salad of mixed greens, fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and chopped fresh basil. 

The fish tasted great.  Though, I have to admit it is a bit scary looking.  Our dachshund, Roger, tried to nab the tail as I slid the bones into the trash.  Can’t say I blame him!

Do you want a late burger and a beer?  Or maybe a whiskey drink?  You want to watch a game?  Hang out with a crowd that is generally over 30?  How ’bout no cell phones at the bar?  Go to Bailey’s 1st and 10.  It’s in a shopping center on Mockingbird at Abrams.  Go hungry.  The “skinny burger” is a mere 7 ounces.  Seems like nothing, compared to the regular burger which is 12 ounces.  Still, not very skinny.  The fries are different.  They’re sliced like someone was about to make a potato gratin but decided to throw the potatoes in the deep fryer instead.  We like ours with a side of ranch.  Don’t ask me how much the burgers cost because there are no prices on the menu.  They’ll tell you if you ask.  But, since I go there to eat a burger it doesn’t really matter what they cost because I’m going to eat one anyway.  Our total bill is always within the reasonable range.  It is not so much the food, but the fact that it’s a low key, neighborhood bar that keeps us coming back.  Not a dive.  But, nothing fancy.  It’s not a hip place.  I wouldn’t be surprised to see my grandpa at the bar yuckin’ it up with some buddies.  You definitely feel like you’ve left Mockingbird Avenue as soon as the door closes behind you.  Just remember that bit about cell phones not being allowed at the bar.  ’Cause they’re not kidding.

Last night we started celebrating the 20th anniversary of our first date.  And what a great way to start.

Our server never mentioned her name.  But, she was quite friendly and instantly put us at ease.  We were lead to the table at the end of the tasting room, by the window.  The funny thing about a tasting menu is that you have so few decisions to make.  Do you want the wine pairings?  Yes.  Do you want the foie gras?  Yes.  Well, then here’s a glass of Llopart, Rose Brut Cava, Sparkling Wine, Spain 2004.  Instantly, I’m happy.

The first taste was a Maine oyster with mignonette and fine herbs.  This was served perched on a mound of damp kosher salt, which resembled a little handful of snow.  Lovely.  This was quickly followed by a scallop crudo with Texas tomatoes and white soy granita.  Thin slices of raw scallop were topped with red and orange grape tomato slices and a granita made of frozen white soy sauce.  Light and seasonally perfect.  These were just the beginning of our 2 and 1/2 hour meal.

Next, Pra, Soave Classico, Northern Italy 2006.  Hubbard said his first bite of the chilled cumcumber soup with creme fraiche, salmon and caviar gave him that “over the top” feeling.  The soup itself was delicately flavored and included tiny chunks of fresh cumcumber and equally tiny brioche croutons.  In the center was a spoon full of a salmon mousse (for lack of a better way to describe it) topped with American sturgeon caviar.  We were still talking about the soup the next morning. 

A chunk of seared Scottish salmon with a crispy skin followed.  It sat atop a red sweet piquillos pepper that was stuffed with brandade.  This sat in a arugula reduction and garnished with olives.  I had to look up brandade this morning because I had no idea of what it was even after I had eaten it.  I found quite a few variations on the recipe.  It is bascially a paste of pounded salt cod, garlic and cream.  I didn’t notice it being fishy at all when it was served with the salmon, which probably makes sense. 

Then came the “Negroni” granita.  A Negroni is an Italian cocktail made with Campari, gin and sweet vermouth.  A small Negroni snow cone arrived at the table sitting in a shot glass full of juniper berries.  When I asked, I was told to just pick it up and eat it like a snow cone, which I promptly did.  Fun!

Our next wine was the Vulci, Cabernet Sauvigon-Sangiovese, Napa Valley 2003.  The best risotto I’ve ever eaten arrived at the table.  It was served with favas, honshimeji mushrooms and speck.  Smokey, creamy, fabulous.  And I don’t even care anything about rice.  The tiny little mushrooms were so precious.  I just loved this stuff.

I have never really been served memorable quail until last night.  It was so tender and juicy, not typical of most of what I’ve had in the past.  The quail was served with bing cherries, polenta and hen of the woods mushrooms.  I’m usually not a fan of fruit in savory dishes.  But, the flavors of the dish melded beautifully.

Then came the lamb loin with succotash.  I told my husband that, though this was my least favorite savory dish, I would have been thrilled to have it in a normal restaurant.  Corn is not my favorite vegetable and I was beginning to run out of steam at this point, since we had eaten every single morsel of each dish that was served to us and had an extra glass of the Cab.

Next up, Marenco, “Scrapona” Moscato di Asti, Piedmonte, Italy.  Sweet, but good.  It paired very well with the duo of Hudson Valley foie gras with black mission figs and brioche.  Of the duo, one piece of foie gras was served warm atop a thick, fig sauce.  The other piece was cold, served with a toasted wedge of brioche.  Fresh fig was sliced on top.  Have you ever eaten anything that was so good it seemed impossible?  This was it for me.  Take a bite.  Sit back and savor.  Have a sip of wine.  Prepare for another bite.  Go for it.  Breathe deeply and wonder how anything can be so good.  This was really the end of the meal for me.  I was over the top.  I tasted our last dishes.  But, I was already sated.

A trio of cheeses were served with these fabulous little housemade savory crackers and an onion/pistachio chutney.  I honestly can’t remember which cheeses.  A blue, a creamy brie-type and a sharp firm cheese.  I know I’m lame for not remembering.  Sorry, by this time I in another place.  I barely noticed the sponge cake with Texas blackberries and Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream.

As we were paying the check ($300 with tip) our waitress said, “But, you know… it’s never really over, is it?”  And she presented us with a tray of tiny treats and the words “Happy Anniversary” painted on the plate in chocolate.  Darling.  Just darling.

We went home.  Changed out of our grown-up clothes and just laid there talking about everything we had tried because it was next to impossible to do anything else.  When I woke up at 4:30 in the morning (my usual wish-I-wasn’t-awake time) I was pleased to find that my ability to stand had returned and that I felt that I would eventually eat again, a couple of things that were clearly impossible the night before.  I should probably look up the definition of gluttony.

I had a couple of recomend-able dishes this weekend at Capitol Pub. 

Calamari Fries - strips of calamari steak, battered and fried.  Served with a creamy tomato based sauce.  Very tasty!  The breading is kind of thick and crunchy and the calamari is cooked perfectly.  Not chewy or tough.  Perfectly tender.  It’s a good snack for two to share before a burger or sandwich.  Or even just over a couple of drinks.

Reuben Sandwich - their housemade corned beef with the standard sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing.  This was a killer sandwich.  Just the right ratio of meat to kraut on a marbled rye bread.  I’ll be having this again. 

From the looks of their website they’re having a little 4th of July thing.  Hub and I have been talking about where to watch the fireworks.  And since we don’t know anyone with a roof facing Fair Park, the question still remains open.  Meridian, you think? 

I know this is probably a girl drink.  But, I just love Orange Blossom Cream Ale.  It’s light and refreshing.  I perfect summer drink.  Not overly sweet or cloying.  Not, to my taste anyway.  I have a hard time resisting a fruity summer ale.

We’re talking fish, not bird.  I bought some at Central Market on Lovers this Sunday.  Simply delicious.  I have only been served skate once at York St.  So, I tried a simple pan searing with a butter sauce of chopped tomatoes and scallion.  Did I forget to take a picture of the finished product?  Yes, I did!  But, check out Snooty Foodie’s site for a picture of what skate looks like as a prepared dish.  It’s there with the York St article.  And, in case you didn’t know, it’s in the ray family of fish.  Ray, as in manta ray.  Now that’s different.   Here’s what it looked like before I cooked it.  Funky, huh?

We were thinking about them last Thursday.  Thinking about them smothered in dry rub.

Dry Rub Recipe
I got this recipe from a friend of mine.  Who knows where he got it?

1 Tablespoon ground black pepper
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
2 Tablespoons chili powder
2 Tablespoons cumin
2 Tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 Tablespoon oregano
4 Tablespoons paprika
2 Tablespoons salt
1 Tablespoon ground white pepper
3 Tablespoons celery salt
3 Tablespoons garlic powder

Feel free to adjust those ingredients to taste…

Put it on the Big Green Egg at 325 degrees for 45 minutes.

Then move the ribs indoors, sealed tightly in a foil pouch on a baking sheet.  This kind of steams the ribs the last part of the cooking while retaining the smokey grill flavor.

Bake for 45 minutes to an hour at 325 degrees. 

Now you can grill your corn or prepare whatever else you’re having.  Here’s what you get.  Highly flavorful pork ribs with meat almost falling off the bone.  We don’t bother with any sauce because their so moist and tasty to begin with.  Watch out for the steam when you open the pouch.  And be sure to make too much.  They make great leftovers.

Hub and I have been on a quest for the perfect brunch.  It really is amazing how many brunch places there are in this city.  Bill Addison and his team at the Dallas Morning News are about to do a piece on favorite brunch spots around town.  He’s previewed the list on the Eats blog and I thought we should try The Grape.  Afterall, it’s on our side of town. 

First and foremost, the Oxtail over Banana Pepper Hash was probably the best brunch dish I’ve ever tasted.  I had the Texas Benedict.  Tomatillo and cheddar cheese sauces served over jalapeno cheese biscuits with the traditional poached eggs and ham.  It was very good.  Although, after tasting Hub’s oxtail dish I was almost willing to sit there until I got hungry again and order the oxtail.  The meat was melt in your mouth tender and the wine demiglaze really rounded out the richness of the dish.  I want it bad.  The prosecco mimosas were a good deal at $4.00.  For those of you who have not been to The Grape.  It’s a small place.  I would prefer a few less tables since the center area of the room seems almost like communal dining.  But, it is quaint and a little rustic.  Reminds me of a few places we ate in Italy.  Small dining room but outstanding food.  Their patio looks nice.  It is just past sitting outdoors weather for me.  We made a pact to come back for dinner sometime.  We paid about $60, including tip, for a couple of mimosas each and brunch, no dessert.  Upside - best brunch dish I’ve had recently.  Downside - $60 is still a lot for breakfast. 

Weekend before last we went to Alo, the newest La Duni clan endeavor.  You would never guess how well designed the decor is for their dining room from the outside of the building.  I thought I heard that this was supposed to be their “affordable” spot.  I didn’t really notice it being anything like cheap.  We shared a modestly sized pitcher of sangria for $25.  More ice than wine.  It was very tasty, though, and not too sweet.  Their queso verde was excellent and a nice little opener for the meal at 3.00 for a small dish.  I had a ham sandwich with crispy chips of chorizo inside a marvelous roll accompanied by a small salad.  The flavor was great and it really hit the spot.  Hubbard had the Gorditas Dona Coco.  He loved it.  I failed to taste it.  So, I can’t really describe the dish.  Hub ordered the warm milk chocolate cake.  Again, those people are some kind of bakers.  Beautiful presentation and beyond excellent.  Upside - great looking place, brunch on Saturday and Sunday starting at 10:30, excellent food.  Downside - no real drink special and the price of $67 total with tip.  That’s not much of a down.  Although it does keep it from being the “perfect” brunch place.

We continue our search.  And what a labor of love it has been!  I’m sure we’ll go back to both of these restaurants again and again.

Yes, they are participating Aug 11-15.  They are currently booking between the times of 5:30 and 6:30 on those nights and you need to specify that you’re booking for Restaurant Week.  I don’t know if they have all tables available during that time or just a specific room.  I just know that I wanted to try it!  Being that they are only taking early evening reservations it may fill up fast.  Last year when I called Stephen Pyles on the day the list came out they were already completely booked.  So, we’re lined up for a table for four.  Our friends that accompanied us to Bijoux last year will be coming along.  I can’t wait!

Now…  should I wait for the list to come out July 14 (thank you very much Donna!)?  Or do I keep calling around now?

I really like this site!